The birds of pretoriuskop

Pretoriuskop is the oldest of the Main Rest Camps within Kruger National Park. Nestled among the hills in the South West of the Reserve, it can be overlooked nowadays, as tourists tend to head more centrally to spy the cats around Skukuza and Satara, or favour the riverbed settings of Lower Sabie and Crocodile Bridge. However, though it may be old, a little worn down, a little out the way, and less attractive than some of its more modern counterparts, Pretoriuskop certainly has its draws. I will talk about more of these, such as the silky tree-lined roads surrounding the camp, and the excellent local bush walks, more in another post. For now, I will focus on the bird life within the camp itself.

In April 2022, I spent two nights at Pretoriuskop. My first day there was hot - late summer, 35 degrees, humid and oppressive. This promised one thing - rain. Serious rain. African rain. The next morning, I went out for a bush walk at dawn, and the rain held off. Upon my return to camp I headed for my room, grabbed my camera to comb through what I’d captured, and sat outside my hut. And the heavens opened. It was rain such as that you can only truly experience in Africa. Rain that you feel, deep in your bones. Rain that makes you smile. You cannot help but enjoy it - sure, it makes you wet, and ruins your game drives. But, sat under cover as I was, with a cup of tea and my camera, I smiled. I realised something too - the end of a downpour often brings out bird life. Rain attracts all sorts of insects, worms, spiders and the like to the surface, and so when the rain stops, the air comes alive with birds, hunting.

I therefore grabbed my bird book (Roberts), and my bird app, and researched what species I might be on the lookout for at Pretoriuskop camp. And, an hour later when the downpour ceased, I headed out. Camera and binoculars in hand, it was time for some birding.

The first species I saw was a Bearded Woodpecker. On the Knobthorn tree just outside my hut, this curious bird quickly started tapping away at the bark, seeking to make the most of the dry conditions. Later on, I saw two Bennett’s Woodpeckers, likely a mating pair, hunting diligently over the ground.

With the immediate area outside my hut explored, I ventured further, into the grassy lawn in between the main huts. This, in the aftermath of such rain, became a haven for insectivores, birds that hunt on the ground, using their long, thin bills to probe expertly and spear all sorts of creatures. Some of these can be seen in the photographs below.

Left to right, top to bottom: Kurrichane Thrush, Groundscraper Thrush, Emerald Spotted Wood Dove, African Hoopoe

Fresh off some special sightings of these insectivores, and high on life, I pushed further into the Pretoriuskop Garden. I ventured towards the swimming pool, as my App told me that I might find some cool species here - Goshawks near the fenceline, Barbets in the trees etc.

I stood by the pool, and listened. And waited. I could hear sounds, birds calling, but they were somewhat muffled by the wind and the damp. However, as I turned to look back at the Accommodation, I spotted a raptor. This must be one of the Goshawks. And, thankfully, it was. A Gabar Goshawk was airing its wings, splayed, on the branch of a dead Marula Tree on the other side of the fence. Wow. At that point, I heard a silky, golden, droplet like sound. It was a bird call, and one I knew well - a Black Headed Oriole. As beautiful as any call in the Bush, this bird also looks stunning, with its (obviously) all black head, golden wings lined with green and white, and tropical shading. The photo below will not do it justice thanks to the light, but google it, trust me.

Black Headed Oriole

Returning back toward my hut, I stoppedd on the spot as I heard another distinctive call - the classic duet of the Black Collared Barbet. Again visually striking, with its yellowy-white front, red head, thick bill (for cracking nuts and seeds) and the black collar after which it is named, this bird calls as a pair, sounding something like “two-pouddle, two-pouddle..”.

The beautiful, slick blue-black back of a glossy starling was next, as a pair was sat hopping across the roof of my hut.

Along with those listed above, I saw Dark-Capped Bulbul, Black-Backed Puffback, Red-Headed Weaver, Cardinal Woodpecker, Grey Penduline Tit, Little Swift, Scarlet Chested Sunbird, Common Scimitarbill, Fork Tailed Drongo and Red-Eyed Dove. In one rainy morning, in the Main Rest Camp of Pretoriuskop, I saw 19 species of birds, most of which were new additions to this trip’s list. Wow.

The rain of the day, while highly irritating for those who wanted to embark upon true game drives, and go out and see the bigger attractions of the Kruger - the Lions, Elephants, Wildebeest and their friends - was a blessing for me and my deep love of birding. We often look over the smaller creatures in the Bush, finding their lives not quite as exciting as the thrill of a predators chase, their calls not quite as alluring as the grunt of a Hippo. However, when truly observed, in their own time and in their own homes, birds are fascinating. They bring beauty and song to even the dullest of days, and in Pretoriuskop that rainy morning, it was my pleasure to observe some of South Africa’s finest.

Left to right: Bearded Woodpecker (Female), Bennett’s Woodpecker, Bennett’s Woodpecker